“Fernweh is the word for you”, Voice in my head shouted.
It was July 2017, while working on my office assignments, I reminded myself to travel to an offbeat place.
“Thousands of tired, nerve-shaken, over-civilized people are beginning to find out going to the mountains is going home; that wilderness is a necessity…” (John Muir)
So after doing an initial research I found out about Spiti Valley in Himachal Pradesh. It is a lesser known sister of Ladakh but surreal one and completely in its raw form.
Spiti valley is serene and breathtaking but needs extensive travelling. Along the valley lies huge, barren mountains highlighted by a single snow capped peak and wide open fields all the way with the river lining the side.
Month of Travel: August, 2017 with pleasant temperature all across the valley.
Total Distance traveled from Delhi : Approx. 1500 kms
Highest Altitude reached: 15049.21 feets ( 4587 mtrs)
There are two ways to travel Spiti Valley:
Delhi to Manali to Spiti Valley ( Altitude increases suddenly and you are susceptible to Altitude sickness)
Delhi to Shimla to Spiti Valley ( Gradual increase in altitude causes body to acclimatize) – We preferred this but due to sudden landslides, we took detour to reach Manali and completed our Spiti Valley trip.
Tip: Keep Diamox (acetazolamide) tablets with you and consult doctor or tour guide before consumption, if you ever feel sickness.
Destinations covered:
Mumbai – Delhi – Shimla – Narkand – Sarahan – Sangla – Chitkul – Rakcham – Reckong Peo – Kalpa – Manali – Rohtang Pass – Kumzum Pass – Kaza – Key Gompa – Komic – Chandratal Lake – Manali – Delhi – Mumbai.
Route Map
1. Shimla (Delhi to Shimla – 340 kms, Time – 8 to 9 hours):
We took a halt at Shimla for 3-4 hours after completing our overnight journey from Delhi to Shimla. The aim to take rest at Shimla was to avoid altitude sickness. Sudden rise in altitude causes your body to react resulting in headache/uneasiness.
Our main aim was to cover Spiti Valley so after rest we embarked our journey to towards Sarahan.
Tip: Keep enough cash with you as Spiti valley has very few ATMs.
2. Narkanda – Sarahan (Shimla to Narkanda to Sarahan – 180 kms, Time – 8 to 9 hours):
As soon as we reached Narkanda, we took lunch break. If you happen to visIt this place, do visit Hatu Temple Peak which is 7 Kms from the main city. You can either trek or use Car/Bike to reach the peak. (Elevation – 3400 mtrs)
Famous Hatu Mata temple is the temple of ‘Mandodari’ wife of ‘Ravana’. There is an ancient stove like formation of rocks nearby the temple. Locals believe that it was used by the Pandavas brothers to cook their food during their Agyaat Vaas.
Hatu Temple, Hatu Peak
After spending a considerable time at the Hatu peak, we started our journey towards Sarahan. One of the place to visit at Sarahan is Bhima Kali temple. It is dedicated to the mother goddess Bhimakali, presiding deity of the rulers of former Bushahr State. The temple is situated about 180 km from Shimla and is one of 51 Shakti Peethass. The town Sarahan is known as the gate way of Kinnaur.
Snow view hotel is just opposite to the temple where the stay was planned, the view from the hotel was eye catching.
Bhima Kali Temple, Sarahan
Tip: You can purchase famous Apples and get it delivered at your place. One of my co traveler purchased from here.
3. Sarahan – Sangla (Sarahan – Sangla – Rakcham – Chitkul – 103 kms, Time – 5-6 hours):
We started from Sarahan after visiting the BhimaKali temple, it was time to Reach Chitkul via Sangla and Rakcham.
Some of the photographs from Sarahan to Chitkul along the way:
Chitkul Village: A tiny hamlet in the lap of himalyas , it is the last inhabited village of India and beyond this village lies Tibet . One travels to Chitkul for the picturesque landscapes and the scenic beauty of the himalyas but stays here for the peace and tranquility of this place.
Try and search for home stays at Chitkul. The place is heaven.
Tip:
Try Lugdi (Local alcoholic beverage) at Chitkul if you can get it from Villagers.
Stay at camps along the river at Night.
Rakcham village: The ride to this village won’t disappoint you. The barren mountain and the Karcham dam on its way is wonderful. Try to stay along the river facing the mighty mountains.
Hotel Rupin river view is just along side the river where the stay was planned, the sound of almost freezing water from glaciers was soothing and calming at night.
4. Rakcham – Kalpa ( Rakcham to Reckong Peo to Kalpa – 65 kms, Time – 4 hours):
We left Rakcham in the morning after Breakfast and morning photo session on the bank of the river. I met a group who were trekking to Himalayas to map the Glacier movement to understand the effect of Global warming.
Reckong Peo:
Reckong Peo or Peo which is known as the Land of the Gods is an amazing showcase of the splendor which Himalayas present. It is one of the places where you can actually do some shopping for the Spiti Valley ahead. We bought the Tibetan flags at this place and had our lunch.
Tip: Dont forget to eat Jalebis at the Main market place of Reckong Peo.
Tip: Try Thukpa, if you want to explore something local. ( Thukpa is a Tibetan noodle soup, which originated in the eastern part of Tibet and northern part of Nepal.)
After Reckong Peo, we left for the Suicide point at Kalpa. The dangerous trench and vertical slopes are the highlights of this place. Also, the breathtaking mountain scenery gives tourists a taste of height and turns their experience into something more interesting. The Suicide Point is located on the road connecting Kalpa with Roghi.
We did a village walk to Roghi Village. It is popular for its apple orchards and ethnic village life, which includes temples, monasteries, Kinnauri style buildings, etc. Some adventure freaks, who love this route and they come down to Roghi only to enjoy the spectacular view of the Kinnaur Kailash range, which can be seen from here. The Roghi village is built on the slope of a mountain and is covered with apple, apricot, and chilgoza trees.
After our Village walk, we left for Kalpa.
Hotel Rakpa Regency was the stay point at Kalpa/
Look at the awesome view of Kinnaur Kailash from Kalpa.
Kinnaur Kailash from Kalpa. (You tube Timelapse video)
The real Spiti Valley starts after this place. The time when we visited was not good and we got the news that due to landslides after Tabo, we will not be able to complete the Spiti Valley. It was a tough night to decide whether to go back or explore nearby places.
Finally it was decided that we will enter Spiti Valley via Manali (The other route which I mentioned above.)
It was a hectic journey to come back to Manali but going to Spiti Valley was worth it.
5. Kalpa – Kaza( Kalpa to Manali to Rohtang Pass to Kumzum Pass to Kaza – 500 kms, Time – 20 hours):
Toughest journey of the complete trip.
Once you cross the yellow board above, you start feeling the adventure zeal of Spiti valley. We had tough time to cross water channels, Chota Dhara and the road itself is not built. Its completely raw and gives you jitters every time you watch the valley side.
“Welcome to Spiti” – Valley echoes all around you !
Best part was when we had to cross “Chota dhara” (as they call it), a water passage crossing the road making it vulnerable for vehicles to get stuck.
We reached Chota dhara at night and one of earlier vehicle was already stuck. We had to push the vehicle in freezing cold water with our feet shivering all night after it. It was one of those nights when you realize, real adventure lies at such places where going back is no option and moving forward has no way.
“Welcome to Spiti Fellas!” – Valley echoed again.
All our drivers were sleepy due to hectic and long jounery from Kalpa till here and there was no sign of nearby village amongst the mighty mountains on the way to Kaza.
Believe me, it was that time when mountains were daunting on us and night was dark. We took shelter along the road with the barren mountains guarding us with no light and supplies. Indeed it was one of the best night when the adventure junkies were high on travel.
We reached Kaza in the morning. It was time to take some rest at Hotel Delek facing the mighty Mountains from the hotel windows.
If you happen to visit Kaza, do visit Zomsa Cafe in the Market where we had good time listening to live music.
Tip: Try Sea buck thorn tea at cafe in Kaza.
6. Kaza ( Kaza to Key Gompa to Langza to Komic to Hikkim to Chandratal Lake – 80 kms, Time – 4-5 hours):
Key Gompa – Key Monastery:
It is the biggest monastery of Spiti Valley and a religious training centre for Lamas. It reportedly had 100 monks in 1855. There are three floors, the first one is mainly underground and used for storage. One room, called the Tangyur is richly painted with murals. The ground floor has the beautifully decorated Assembly Hall and cells for many monks.
Langza:
Known as fossil village and also considered as one of the highest village connected with motorable road. 
Tip: Don’t forget to buy some souvenirs from here, you will get fossil stones from local people. See below.
Komic Village: One of the highest motorable village in Asia
Hikkim – Worlds highest post office.
Tip: Send some letters to your dear ones as a memory from this post office.
7. Chandratal Lake:
A camper and trekker’s paradise, Chandratal Lake is often referred to as one of the most beautiful lakes located at an altitude of about 4300 m in the mighty Himalayas. The name “Chandra Taal” (Lake of the Moon) comes from its crescent shape. Once a tentative residence for Tibetan traders traveling to Spiti and the Kullu valley, it attracts thousands of adventure enthusiasts from all over the world. Vast stretches of green meadows house the best camping sites and an array of different wildflowers during springtime.
7. Chacha Chachi ka Dhaba
Dont forget to stop at Chacha Chachi ka dhaba while coming back to Delhi. They have saved thousands of life during heavy snowfall and other problems. Extremely humble and have received many accolades for the same.
We reached back Delhi with co travelers cum newly found friends who has become a part of my memory forever.
At the end, I will just say,
” I realized that you can sustain in absolutely difficult situations and with utmost no resources.”
The people you meet, the destinations you cover, the places you explore becomes a part of you.
“When the wind calls, you know, that somewhere in the mountains, it has found the answers that you were looking for. The pull of the horizon overcomes the inertia of reason…And you just have to go.” (Vikram Oberoi)
Keep travelling and keep exploring. I have uploaded soem videos of the valley. Do check on TravelExp youtube channel.
Don’t forget to follow this blog for more unexplored places. Just follow on the main Page.
Tip: If you have spare time in Delhi and you happen to have some time at Majnu ka tilla, Delhi go to AMA cafe at Tibetan village camp. You will love it.
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